Saturday, September 20, 2008

Temperatures Rising

Those of you who are Summer people will be relishing the rising temperatures while those of us who become grease-spots on the footpath in hot weather watch the temperatures moving upward with a dread similar to that evoked by the dentists drill. All I can say is thank goodness I don't have to go outside in the heat to love food 'n wine. This week heralds the return of our popular feature, the History of Wine as well as another entry in the Wine Log. Hope you enjoy both and please feel free to make comments and suggestions for things you would like covered in future posts. Just a heads up! I will be commencing our series where I visit wineries and meet the viticulturists and wine-makers and come up with three special deals for you. So keep returning and I'll keep on writing. Added in this post is the ability to become a follower of the Blog. Please participate in this as I will be using the numbers to leverage better wine deals for you.

THE HISTORY OF WINE 4
While it was the Greeks who initially drove the development of wine as a trading commodity and lauded its qualities as a drink for this life and any that might follow, it was the Romans who developed the fledgling industry into one that was innovative and progressive.
Horace, a Roman writer of some fame wrote "No poem was ever written by a drinker of water." I am not going to test the literal truth of that, but suffice to say that the population explosion in the Roman Empire from about 300BC until the beginning of the Christian era fueled a huge increase in wine consumption, which required increases in production achieved by efficiency gains as well as crop expansion.

The Romans loved their wine, drinking it at least three times a day. Like many a modern wine drinker they consumed large amounts of water when imbibing, but their water was mixed with the wine at rates of 5:1. They preferred sweet wine and their most prized wine was a white from what they considered the best wine growing area called Falernian

Unusual flavors were often added to the wine. The Romans liked to mix honey with this drink to make an aperitif called mulsum. Click here for an authentic recipe. They often added herbs and spices, but were also known to mix wine with salt water which must have given it an extremely bitter taste. Even chalk was sometimes mixed with wine to reduce acidity!


The Romans also strung together improvements in technology such as
lifting the grapes off the soil by using props and trellises, improving on the Greek presses used for extracting juice, classifying which grapes grew best in which climate, all these increased yields from the vine and yields from the grapes.


In addition they improved the way in which wine was stored and thus its longevity through the use of barrels and latterly glass bottles which they filled with wine and topped off with olive oil thus reducing oxidization tremendously. This was a pretty important advance as at the same time they were also discovering the value of aging their wines for more complexity of flavour.


In fact here is the story of the "World's Oldest Wine Bottle."

Unearthed during excavation for building a house in a vineyard near the town of Speyer, Germany, it was inside one of two Roman stone sarcophaguses that were dug up. The bottle dates from approximately 325 A.D. and was found in 1867.

The greenish-yellow glass amphora has handles formed in the shape of dolphins. One of several bottles discovered, it is the only one with the contents still preserved.

The ancient liquid has much silty sediment. About two-thirds of the contents are a thicker, hazy mixture. This is most probably olive oil, which the Romans commonly used to "float" atop wine to preserve it from oxidation. Cork closures, although known to exist at the time, were quite uncommon. Their oil method of preservation was apparently effective enough to keep the wine from evaporation up to modern day.

The bottle is on permanent display, along with other wine antiquities, at the Historisches Museum der Pfalz, which is worth a virtual visit or an actual one, if travelling near the area of Speyer, Germany.

MY WINE LOG

Monday night we had pan fried Basa Fillets with home grown Silver Beet and chunky cut oven baked chips. Perhaps a nice Semillon or a floral Sauvignon Blanc, but not us. We had some young friends around to discuss some business and they are fans of red wine, so I broke open a bottle of recently purchased Rymill "The Yearling" Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. The Yearling is just a very young red made for immediate drinking therefore if was a much lighter wine than the Cabernet Sauvignon's that I normally drink, however this wine had intense floral and fruity aromas on the nose and was mouth filling, with a vibrant fruit and tanning blend. I have cellared 6 bottles to see if it has the acid and tannin to last in the bottle and will let you know if you stick around.

The meal comprised imported Basa fillets a freshwater fish that is surrounded with controversy due to it being farmed in Vietnam, on the Mekong River, which is known as a dirty waterway. Click here to read more about this. Suffice it to say that Jocelyn and I have been eating Basa for many years without any ill effects. We believe that the white fleshed fish is one of the most beautiful eating we have had and compares with the likes of Orange Roughy and John Dory.

Coupled with torn leaves of home grown Silverbeet which came from a number of green, red and yellow cultivars. The tearing of the leaves is said to increase the reduction of the bitter taste that can be associated with Silverbeet if it is very mature. The different colour ribbing adds colour breaks in the wide expanses of green leaves. I prefer to blanch as this allows the leaves to retain some crunch, but others prefer to boil to the point where the leaves are totally soft. Please remember that vegetables continue to cook while they are hot, so allow for that when estimating cooking times.

This evening I tossed the Silverbeet in a dressing of olive oil, garlic and crushed pepper.

The chunky cut chips were out of the supermarket freezer and baked in the oven until crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. As they were served I sprinkled Parmesan and poppy seeds over them for extra interest.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Chefs Toolbox Party

Hi all,
You may have picked up that my friend Ainsley Kloeden, is a Chefs Toolbox Consultant. Yesterday I went to Wodonga to support her and another friend Marshall Callaghan who was hosting a party at his home. We had a great spread prepared for us and watched the miracle of modern cooking technology produce a pan baked pizza with toppings at least 3 cm thick, followed by the most amazing dessert of chocolate cases filled with Toblerone mousse. As you may guess I love cooking but I also love good cooking technology and Chefs Toolbox provides that in every facet. Also you might be interested in the huge array of recipes that are provided on the site at

http://www.chefstoolbox.com.au/recipes.aspx?recCat=All%20Recipes

I just loved the afternoon and sat back with my bottle of 5th Leg from Western Australia. That's why I love food and wine.

Well I said I would finish the DOs of Wine Tasting At A Cellar Door this week so here are the final four, of course the list is not exclusive so if you can identify more and want to add them as comments I would be glad to include them.

MORE DOS OF WINE TASTING AT A CELLAR DOOR

9. DO: Extend your Wine experience a little each time you visit a cellar door. Taste and if you like, purchase a new variety or style of wine on each occasion, couple that with the purchase of a wine which you are already familiar with and enjoy and you will be experimenting, painlessly. Also be aware that some wines do not show their full range of flavours and aromas until matched with food, so it is sometimes worthwhile to take home a bottle of wine that the person at cellar door describes as a food wine. Nick Bulleid a Meer of Wine has this to say about what makes a good food wine, in his Reflections on the Sydney International Wine Show.

"This is a Wine Show where wines .......... that show up best accompanying food - ... are rewarded."

He goes on to say:

Those of us who do frequent wine tastings get so used to the comment "that wine would look much better with food" that we still get surprised when the reality is clearly demonstrated. Good wines do taste better with food. And that's what the Sydney International is all about.

The differences between wines tasted by themselves in the first phase, judging and then with food in the second stage, were often marked. Specifically, white wines that showed phenolic characters, that impression of light tannin, mattiness, a touch of bitterness on the finish, mostly looked uglier with food, becoming more chewy and bitter. And with oaky whites, where the oak was not well integrated, the oak flavours became even more intrusive.

Some neutral whites, curiously, were not improved by food at all. Harvey (Steiman) and I sent a fresh, attractive, although rather neutral Chenin Blanc through to the Second Phase judging. Using fresh, but bland whites with food is a characteristically Italian approach to wine and food matching, as the wine is used, to refresh and cut through the flavours and textures of the food. But unfortunately, this wine looked even blander!

The whites which really succeeded were medium bodied wines with delicacy, good balance and depth of fruit. The Semillons, the finer Chardonnays, the less pungent Sauvignon Blancs and even the aromatic Rieslings were the most obvious examples and these wines were often spectacular with the food.

With the reds, again, the oaky wines were not assisted by food, and looked even oakier. It was the softer, medium bodied wines with good flavours and fine tannins that really shone. The full bodied reds did well, provided the oak was well integrated and there was no over-extraction of tannins. As with the whites, the food magnified the imperfections and caused me to pass over wines which, through their sheer strength of character, I probably would have supported in a typical “line-’em-up” wine show."

10. DO: Please store your wine in the coolest part of your car when travelling and if visiting several wineries park in the shadiest spots. I usually try to leave my wine purchases for the morning that I intend to return home from a trip to a wine region or festival. I then sweep round to the wineries from which I intend to purchase, during the cool of the morning and drive home by the most direct route. However I realise that this isn't always possible. Try to avoid direct sunlight, prolonged exposure to heat and too much bumping and shaking as this will damage the wine in ways that no amount of subsequent careful cellaring can rectify. If possible take an insulated carrier bag with you.

11. DO: When you get your wine home, leave it to settle for a couple of weeks before drinking, especially if you have travelled any distance. Believe it or not wine can get a condition called "travel sickness" – a flat, dull, out of balance character that goes away with time. ‘Travel sickness’ is usually the reason that wine tastes so differently at home compared to the cellar door.

12. DO: Appreciate that the cost of providing cellar door tastings is high. A sales tax applies to all wine consumed there. As well there is the much larger labour cost. A minimum cost to the winery for each cellar door visitor would be between AUD$5 - AUD$6. Not surprisingly some wineries charge a small nominal fee if a purchase is not made.

I hope that these tips are useful in increasing the breadth and depth of your wine experience as you explore the wine regions closest to you in the coming months.

MY WINE LOG

As you will discover, if you spend enough time with me on this blog, I love things a little bit different. So if you are a plain eater don't be discouraged, just leave the little extras out of each recipe and they will usually taste just fine.

Today I am opening a 1999 Pizzini Wines Cabernet Sauvignon. Pizzini wines are situated in the head of the King Valley and a substantial source of cool climate wines in the North East of Victoria.
The label on the bottle describes the wine in 1999 as grown in the Lana-Trento vineyard, the 1999 vintage has lush berry fruit flavours and finely textured tannins. The colour is dark ruby while the aromatics are earthy with layers of violets, wild blackberry and cedar.

My tasting notes in 2008 read, 'Deep crimson in the glass. The nose was awash with aromas including leather, tobacco and hints of fresh leaf litter. The palate was lush and full with a complex blend of fruit and tannins softened by age to a velvet finish. A rich and spectacular wine '. Although the 1999 vintage is no longer available at the cellar door, they are currently selling the 2001.

The tasting notes for this describe it as follows:
Rich, deep red in colour. The nose initially shows cassis, dried herbs, and tomato leaf. As the wine opens up, spiced plums, stewed rhubarb, and prune notes develop. It has lush, upfront acidity on the palate preparing the senses for rich intense berry fruit flavours. The wine is finely textured, showing warmth, elegance, good structure and longevity.

Today I am preparing a Korma dish as our evening meal. Korma is a pale mild creamy curry dish, which can have a host of varying ingredients. The herbs usually include Coriander and Cummin
The spices usually include chilli and paprika The creaminess is created by the use of either yoghurt or coconut milk.

I use a recipe that I picked up from a Jamie Oliver TV cooking program and have adapted:

The ingredients of the Korma

1 heaped tablespoon of finely grated fresh ginger
3 cloves of garlic, minced
150g thick (plain) yogurt
1 dried red chilli
2 finely chopped onions
1 tbsp ghee or veg. oil
1 tbsp ground coriander
Pinch of ground black pepper
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp garam masala
water
75g creamed coconut
salt, to taste
2 heaped tbsps ground almonds
finely chopped Coriander Leaves, to garnish
juice of 1/2 lemon

Preparation of the Korma

1. Liquidise the chopped onion and red chillies, add a little water if you need to. blend till smooth.
2. Heat the oil in a pan.
3. Add the ground coriander, ground black pepper, turmeric and garam masala and stir fry for about 1-minute over a low heat.
4. Turn up the heat, add the onion and chilli paste and stir fry for 10-minutes.
5. Add the chicken and the marinade and continue to stir fry for another 10-minutes.
6. Add the creamed coconut and enough water to *just* cover the chicken and bring to the boil, stirring until the coconut is dissolved. Stir in the ground almonds.
7. Reduce heat to low, cover the pan and simmer until the chicken is tender (30-40 minutes).
8. Remove from heat, add lemon juice and salt to taste. Mix well.

Your choice of Vegetables
I love brussel sprouts and broccoli so they tend to be a feature of my cooking along with a mix of brown, white, and red onions. Some add small new potatoes.
In this case I used all the above except for the potatoes and cooked them in the steamer until crisp.

Your Choice of Meat
My choice of meat on this occasion was bacon and chicken. I marinated the chicken and bacon ends in the Korma for 12 hours prior to cooking, this process acts as a tenderiser. I then cooked both the chicken and bacon in the Korma sauce for 20 minutes on a medium heat.

After 20 minutes I added the vegetables to the sauce and continued to cook them for a further 20 minutes.
The dish was served as a one bowl meal, with crispy papadoms on the side.

Some people have asked when my Journey with Wine and The History of Wine will re - commence. Starting with my next post I will have one of those features and then will alternate them for the next few weeks.

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Spring Is Here, Great For Those Who Love Food N Wine

Welcome Back, As you may have noticed we have maintained our position for our major keywords and also now have another top spot for the phrase "My Journey With Wine" The Spiders love us and I hope that you will too. Well in this post we will continue the DOS of Wine Tasting at A Cellar Door as well as have another food and wine match in My Wine Log. So let's begin

MORE DOS of Wine Tasting At A Cellar Door.

6.
DO: Take small portions of wine to taste as mentioned previously, but also consider the advice I was given once by the late Ernie Hunter, of Hunter Wines in Marlborough. He said that each taste should be divided in two equal parts. The first should be swirled around all areas of the tongue and mouth, it's purpose to wash out out any previous wine or water. Then use the second portion to make a judgment of the wine.

7. DO:
Be patient if a wine you are tasting has a different taste to wines you have had before. This could be for a number of reasons. Firstly it may simply be a style or variety you have not tried before. Secondly, it may be the wine-maker emphasising an attribute of a wine or thirdly it may be the wine maker trying to develop a new style or resurrect one forgotten in wine making history. It is not usually a sign of bad wine.

8. DO: Try to compare apples with apples or in this case a wine of one variety or blend with another from the same variety or blend. In this way you get a true comparison. Also remember that all wines are not styled equally, so the same grape variety can produce amazingly different wine. How about the Orange Muscat grape which is used to produced a dry flinty table wine , a floral sweeter style or a full blown sweet dessert wine by three wineries I know of. Also be aware that some wines have great immediate flavour impact, a Warrabilla Red for example, while other red wines such as Pinot Noir have complexity of flavour that unfolds with each taste.

We will conclude this series in my next post.

MY WINE LOG

Tonight we broke open a bottle of West End Wines 3 Bridges Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. West End Estate Wines is situated in Griffith, part of the Riverina Wine Region. It has been operated by the Calabria Family since 1945, as Calabria Wines and since 1974 under its present name. So this distinguished winery has a history the same length as mine.

3 Bridges is the flagship brand of West End Estate Wines and the grapes for each variety are handpicked at optimum condition.
The result in this case is a
powerhouse Cabernet Sauvignon lavishly barrel-aged and loaded with mulberry and blackberry fruit, dark Lindt chocolate and highlights of mint. This wine was mouth-filling and so long on the palate that we only managed a bottle between us.

This wine needs strong flavours in the food that it accompanies and our simple meal of chicken sausages with a mixed green salad, with avacado, red grilled capsicums, tomatoes and onions may have become lost in it's power. To offset this I took the following steps:

I normally slice sausages and fill them with some cheese to keep them moist and add some flavour, but I chose to do two things with them for this meal. I made up a different filling and had each sausage with a poppy seed coat over the bottom half

Firstly the filling
A lemon peel, two tablespoons of crushed garlic and one of crushed ginger were put in the whizz and processed until creamy then a half teaspoon of chilli powder was added and whizzed again.

Preparation of the Sausages
The sausages were then par cooked by boiling, allowed to cool and then the bottom half of the sausage was placed in flour then whisked egg and then poppy seeds and allowed to sit for 15 minutes. They were then split not end to end, but using the following method:

The cut was started 1 cm from the end of the sausage and went to within 1 cm of the other end. Then a second cut is made along side the first and a sliver of sausage is removed. (That sliver from each sausage was added to the mixture in the food processor and whizzed.

Cooking of the Sausages
The sausages were placed in a dish containing three tablespoons of olive oil with foil over the stop to retain moisture. Then put in the middle tray of the oven which had been pre-heated to 180 degree Celsius oven, for 15 minutes.

Preparation of Salad Dressing
Amounts depend on the amount of salad to be dressed.

1 X Balsamic Vinegar
.5 X Hot english Mustard
.5 Seeded Mustard
1 x Olive Oil
.25 Wasabi or Horseradish
.25 Garlic

Drizzle over salad on the plate.

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